Antique Bracelet & Brooch With Diamonds & Pearls in Enameled Gold

The longing for blooming nature, the rich beauty of creation, shaped the perception of nature and the sense of life in the Romantic period across all regions of Europe. In the “Spring Dream” from his Winterreise, Schubert dreams “of colourful flowers, as they might bloom in May.” In painting, Caspar David Friedrich evokes the forces of nature in the icy seas or on mountain peaks. And in the field of jewellery, designers left behind the forms of antiquity for the first time in decades, creating works of exquisite delicacy, all in the spirit of nature imitation. The set of bracelet and brooch presented here shows this joy of naturalism and colour. Both pieces of jewellery are designed in the form of twisted branches, adorned with green enamelled leaves and fruit made of pearls and diamonds. The surface of the gold is meticulously crafted, with bark-like rings and leaves that appear freshly dew-kissed, showcasing the skill of the goldsmiths. The brooch and bracelet were created in Paris, as indicated by the hallmarks on the pieces. Their design suggests they were made around 1850. Jewellery designed after nature (alongside those in fairy-tale medieval forms) was the dernier cri at the court of both Louis-Philippe and Napoleon III. That the set originates from this environment is also confirmed by the quality of its design: diamond jewellery was a hallmark of court jewellery during this period. The technical execution is particularly sophisticated. The bracelet consists of individual, curved links connected by flexible chains. This creates a piece of jewellery with the appearance of a bangle, yet it is as flexible and comfortable to wear as a bracelet. Two independent appraisals have confirmed the quality of the materials. These are included with the set. For dating cf. among others those in Henri Vever: La bijouterie française au XIXe siècle (1800-1900), 3 vols., Paris 1906-1908, here vol. 1: Consulate - Empire - Restoration - Louis-Philippe. 1800-1850, Paris 1906, p. 342 (our illustration), also on p. 364 etc. illustrated jewelry in the style of naturalism. Cf. also David Bennet and Daniela Mascetti: Understanding Jewellery, Woodbridge 2010, p.126.

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