Antique Brooch with Bohemian Garnets, c. 1890

Garnets from Bohemia are now considered classics among pieces of jewellery—yet this dark-red gemstone did not begin its spectacular rise to prominence in jewellery fashions until relatively late, namely in the second half of the 19th century. The classic forms of garnet jewellery, as we still know them today, date from this period: stars, moons, and flowers made of garnets set in a dense pavé pattern. This brooch, created around 1890, features an oval center element that has been elongated into an oblong shape. Numerous fiery rose-cut garnets, carefully set in various sizes, make the piece sparkle with life. They are set in gold-plated tombac, which is barely visible from the front and thus highlights the full effect of the stones. For dating, see a page from the 1889 catalog of L. J. Flowers of Salem, Massachusetts, the Busiest House of America, see here.

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