Antique Necklace with Citrines & Green Tourmalines in Gold, British, c. 1900

Deep and mysteriously glowing green tourmalines in the color of a pine forest are set next to warm, sherry-colored citrines. Set in luxurious curves of beaded gold, they create the harmonious color scheme of an autumn walk. Not only in its design, but also in its unusual juxtaposition of gemstones, the necklace was at the height of fashion at the beginning of the 20th century. At the turn of the century, the focus was no longer on the purely material value of a gemstone, but also on its aesthetic value, continuing the ideas of the English "Aesthetic Movement". Against this background, numerous new gemstones, which had previously hardly been used in jewellery, became very popular. In 1888, an essay entitled "Aesthetic Jewels" in the Journal of the Goldsmith's Art read: "They have been completely neglected because their beauty was unknown, and only recently has the value of moonstones, hyacinths, zircons and tourmalines begun to be fully appreciated and their popularity is now growing every year." The necklace has survived in its original case from the goldsmiths and jewelers Grant & Son in Carlisle. It is a typical British design from the turn of the century. Quoted from Loraine Pearce Bucklin, 'Aesthetic Jewels', Journal of the Goldsmith's Art, 8 (1888), pp. 21-22 (here p. 22).

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