Antique Onyx, Oriental Pearl and Diamond Brooch, c. 1875

The mourning rituals of the 19th century in Europe were subject to strict etiquette. Part of this was the mourning dress, which could take well over a year to wear. Due to this long duration, during which high-ranking ladies could not leave the house completely unadorned and thus without representation befitting their status in the form of precious jewellery, pieces of jewellery in black materials such as jet and onyx enjoyed great popularity at times. Here, a deep black onyx has become a brooch. The stone has been cut into a circular shield with beveled edges. A natural pearl shimmers in its center. A frame of eleven diamonds in historical cuts surrounds the sea treasure. With its combination of black and white, this piece can be assigned to the semi-mourning period, which was generally worn after six months of mourning. Brooches made of black onyx with a diamond or pearl in the middle were particularly popular in this context. The shield-like shape and workmanship date this example to the 1870s, when round brooches were particularly popular.

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