Artful Belle Époque Pendant Brooch with Emeralds & Diamonds, circa 1910

Lightness was the ideal of the Belle Époque, that period between the late 19th century and the outbreak of the First World War. It was no longer just the aristocracy that celebrated glittering parties. The bourgeoisie, which had gained wealth and prestige through industrialization, also wanted to participate in the sunny side of life. Rousing balls, foaming champagne goblets and elegant salons characterize the image of that time. This feeling of joie de vivre and lightness was also to be reflected in jewellery and fashion: Luxurious diamond jewels were the ideal, and in the new electric light it also glittered at night as never before. The heavy jewellery of the late 19th century now disappeared. The designs became ever finer, almost ethereal. Their preciousness was to be expressed in the constant refinement of the goldsmith's art. Such a jewel is the pendant brooch presented here. Its basic form is composed of delicate lines, which were set with diamonds and emeralds close together in tireless handwork. The emeralds have been cut to match, to create an almost seamless impression. Two pearls with a silky luster complete the artful creation. Worn as a brooch, the piece was a so-called devant-de-corsage, a corsage brooch worn centrally in front of the chest. For this purpose, the lower emerald wreath is mounted movably, so that it can fit snugly on any dress. However, the pin and clasp can also be unscrewed, and two eyelets hidden at the back can then accommodate a delicate chain or ribbon. As low-cut dresses and thus pendants came back into fashion in the first decade of the 20th century, the investment in the precious piece paid off doubly – then as now. We were able to discover the wonderful piece of jewellery in Miami. Its fineness mark, however, points to a British origin.

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