Charming Antique Brooch "en tremblant" with Diamonds, c. 1880

Like no other gemstone, the diamond draws its effect from the light that falls on it and is reflected by its facets in many ways. In the 19th century, when diamonds became increasingly important for jewellery, a new type of jewellery became very popular: brooches with tremblant ornaments, usually flowers made of diamonds, which tremble with every movement due to built-in spiral springs, thus creating additional light reflections. The large flower in the center of this brooch is fitted with a spring that is invisible from the front. When the wearer moves, the flower trembles as if it has been touched by a gentle breeze. This effect wonderfully supports the naturalism of the design. The flower branch is entirely set with diamonds totaling 3.30 carats in various historical cuts, transforming it into a shimmering feast of white light reflections. The front of the brooch is made of silver, while the back is plated with gold to prevent it from staining clothing. In the past, it was rhodium-plated so that it now has a uniform white appearance. We date the brooch, which came to us from Baden, to around 1880 and it is in first-class condition. For the dating and shape, see David Bennet and Daniela Mascetti: Understanding Jewellery, Woodbridge 2010, pp. 204-208 and p. 238 respectively.

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