Classic “Toi-et-moi” Ring with Sapphire & Diamonds, c. 1920

This ring is a so-called “Toi-et-Moi” ring, a “you-and-me” design. Pieces of jewellery that, like this ring, focus on two central elements—whether two stones, delicate pearls, or other precious materials—were at the height of their popularity c. 1900 and shortly thereafter: Symbols were highly prized, and in the imagination of the time, a man and a woman stand here facing each other as lovers—recognizable as distinct elements, yet firmly bound by their feelings and united in a single piece of jewellery. Here, a sapphire and a large old-cut diamond are set as the focal points. The natural, untreated sapphire has a dark blue colour and weighs approximately one carat. The brilliant old-cut diamond weighs about 0.75 ct and has only a few inclusions. Both stones are set in platinum. Six single cut diamonds adorn the curved ends of the ring band, which hold the sapphire and the large diamond and form the ring. The lower setting and the ring band—which was recently restored—are made of white gold. This helps date the ring to around 1920: Its design is still very much in keeping with the fashion c. 1900, yet white gold did not become common in Europe until the late 1910s. The ring was most likely made in Germany. It is accompanied by an independent appraisal from Vienna.

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