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Demi-Parure Earrings & Pendant Brooch with Pearls in Gold, Vienna c. 1880

Demi-Parure Earrings & Pendant Brooch with Pearls in Gold, Vienna c. 1880

Ornaments, like all forms, are subject to fashions and tastes. The Rococo period loved the rocaille, a kind of shell shape; around 1800, classical ornaments from antiquity dominated the arts. In the first half of the 19th century, taste then rediscovered objects from nature, initially mainly plants, leaves and flowers, and by the middle of the century, elegantly draped ribbons and knots. The demi-parure presented here - a set of earrings and a locket that can be worn as a brooch or pendant - glows in the radiance of warm yellow gold. Small pearls shine on it like delicious fruit. Intersecting gold bands are placed over a red gold ring, and red gold clasps hold small settings with natural pearls. Most of the surface of the jewelry is finely gold-plated, giving the objects a buttery matt gold sheen. A glazed compartment on the back of the pendant brooch can be used to hold a photograph or lock of hair. A look at the details of the workmanship also reveals the rare case that the earrings have even survived with their original earwires. The set was designed around 1880 and the Viennese hallmarks on all parts of the jewelry also indicate that it was made after 1872. As the goldsmith Josef Kucher, whose maker's mark we find on the set, founded his trade in 1878, this detail also supports the date of origin. We discovered the demi-parure, which has been preserved in an antique case, in Vienna.

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Demi-Parure Earrings & Pendant Brooch with Pearls in Gold, Vienna c. 1880