Elegant Art Deco Brooch with Diamonds in Platinum & White Gold, c. 1930

In previous generations, people who wanted to own jewellery in line with the latest fashion rarely went to a jeweler to buy a finished piece. Far more often, they went to a goldsmith to have a new piece of jewellery made according to their own ideas and in exchange with the craftsman. Around c. 1900, there were already large jewelry department stores with an immense selection offering finished manufactured goods - Wilhelm Müller in Berlin was one of them. But the older tradition of having jewellery individually made was still alive. We can observe a typical approach of the time time and again: Instead of creating new pieces completely from scratch, existing rings, brooches and necklaces were often incorporated. The gemstones in particular were often re-set and thus reused. Here is an example of an advertisement by the jeweller Kind & Sons from Philadelphia in the USA, published around 1925, which advertises precisely this approach. The idea of re-setting the gemstones was not only due to cost savings. Last but not least, it also resulted in pieces that continued the history of their own family and could be as traditional as they were modern. This brooch was created in exactly this way. An elongated oval is set with palmettes on the right and left. Five larger diamonds are arranged in the middle along the horizontal and individually set in fine frames. The surfaces of the palmettes and the oval are adorned with 52 further, smaller diamonds. The design of the brooch, with its strict symmetry and delight in geometry, as well as the workmanship of the brooch with a platinum display side on a white gold base, show that the brooch was created in the years around 1930, at the height of Art Deco. The cuts of the diamonds, however, are typical of diamonds from the early to mid-19th century. They therefore obviously come from older pieces of jewellery and were given a new lease of life around 1930. Because the brooch is elegant, perfectly crafted and has become a worthy setting for the precious heirlooms. Will you now give the brooch the opportunity to establish a new family tradition?

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