Elegant Brooch with 2.30 ct Old Cut Diamonds In Platinum & Gold, c. 1915

The fashion of the first decade after 1900 brought a completely new development in the field of jewellery. As before, jewelry made of platinum, silver and diamonds shone in bright white. However, the shapes now became lighter, more delicate, even ethereal. The ever more refined use of platinum in particular made it possible to create the most delicate bars and the finest settings for the shining gemstones. This brooch is a fine example of this style. It is crafted from platinum and features a glittering setting of 65 diamonds with a total weight of around 2.31 ct. A large old-cut diamond of around 0.850 carats sparkles in the center of the composition. The pin is made of gold. The design is elongated and swings gently in and out. Is it a coincidence that the shape is reminiscent of lips, a kiss of light? The cut of the smaller diamonds in the so-called "Swiss cut", a cut with 16 facets in the upper part and 16 facets in the lower part, is typical of the period up to around 1920. The cut of the large diamond also refers to this period. Unfortunately, it is not entirely clear where the brooch was made. It could have been made in Germany, for example, but also in England. What is certain is that it was imported to France in more recent times, as it bears a corresponding import mark, and we also discovered it in Paris.

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