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Alla auktioner / Smycken & ädelstenar / Elegant Brooch With Amethyst & Antique Diamonds In Platinum, Dated Moscow 1958

4d 22hDEHofer Antikschmuck

Elegant Brooch With Amethyst & Antique Diamonds In Platinum, Dated Moscow 1958

Elegant Brooch With Amethyst & Antique Diamonds In Platinum, Dated Moscow 1958

This elegant, precious brooch presents an amethyst in the colour of the scented violet. The natural gemstone is shaped in an oval facet cut, which elicits effective light reflections. The amethyst is held in place by a delicate gold frame, while the rest of the brooch is made of platinum. A total of 54 diamonds weighing around 1.70 ct set the sparkling surface of the brooch. The quality craftsmanship by hand and the details of the design with milgrains and geometric rigor are in keeping with the Art Deco jewellery of the 1920s and 1930s. The cuts of the diamonds, on the other hand, are significantly older; some of them were cut in the early 19th or even 18th century. The hallmarks on the brooch, on the other hand, date from 1958! How does this fit together? The brooch actually bears hallmarks from Moscow, which refer to the year 1958. We initially thought that an older piece of jewellery had probably been hallmarked here, which happens again and again. After all, the workmanship and design suggest that this is a brooch from the early 20th century. But then we discovered that the setting of the amethyst is also hallmarked, which can only have happened during the manufacturing process, but not after the stone had already been set. Therefore, it must be different and the brooch was made in the taste of the early 20th century in the late 1950s. Until the 1950s, the taste in jewellery in the Soviet Union was very conservative and influenced by the classicism of the 1930s. It was only after Stalin's death that the forms slowly changed. The brooch is in very good condition. We discovered it in Vienna.

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