Elegant Déco Ring with Diamonds and Synthetic Sapphires, c. 1930

Synthetic gemstones, especially sapphires and rubies, were very fashionable in the first decades of the 20th century. Auguste Verneuil had developed the technique for producing them in 1891. His laboratory-developed rubies, later joined by sapphires, were almost indistinguishable from natural stones in terms of structure and color. Synthetic gemstones quickly became the dernier cri of the fashion world. They made new designs possible, the realization of which had previously been prevented by the lack of availability of gemstones of consistent quality. This ring is a beautiful example of this type of jewellery, which might never have been realized without the invention of gemstone synthesis. The showpiece of the ring is designed in the shape of a rectangle, almost square, and divided into three strips. On the right and left, small diamonds sparkle in a strip of platinum. The middle section is densely covered with sapphires. These are synthetic sapphires that form an intensely blue field. The stones are suitably cut and set close together so that no setting edge or prongs are visible. Their deep blue alone shines here and seems to float in the frame of the diamonds. The center - and this is where the sapphires are attached - is set with a sparkling old-cut diamond weighing more than half a carat. The sapphires are intricately cut and require a lot of material. Finding stones of exactly the same, best possible color would have been very, very difficult with natural stones. With synthetic sapphires, however, a completely new look was achieved - a modern, previously unseen design that still impresses today. In keeping with the use of synthetics, the ring itself is made of white gold, an equally innovative, newly developed gold alloy at the time, which only became more widespread in the 1920s. As in previous decades, the front is nevertheless plated with platinum to create the whitest possible impression. White gold still had a certain warm tone at that time. As the design also clearly points to the Art Deco era, we date this ring to around 1930.

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