Fine Pendant Brooch with Diamonds in Gold & Silver, c. 1910

Until the early 20th century, strict social rules still applied to the wearing of jewellery. Black jewellery was mandatory during mourning, coral was preferred in summer and modest silver jewellery, often in Renaissance forms, was worn to church. Young girls often adorned themselves with turquoise, while magnificent diamond jewellery for the evening was reserved for married women. For this reason, the bridal gift often included jewellery with diamonds, so that the lady was well equipped for her new role. The catalog of the jeweller Au Négre, 19, Boulevard Saint Denis, Paris, from 1912 contains beautiful examples of this. On the page with the wedding gifts, the "Corbeilles de Mariage", which translates as "jewellery for the wedding basket", we find diamond necklaces in the most modern designs of the time. Like the pieces of jewellery in the catalog, this piece is influenced by the elegant lines of Art Nouveau. With a total of around 4.45 carats of historic old and rose cut diamonds, the piece of jewellery is magnificently set. The stones are effectively set in lightly patinated silver, which pleasantly enhances their sparkle. In addition to the gold pin, the piece has two small hooks on the back for attaching a chain. This means it can also be worn as a pendant, just like the comparable piece in the catalogue. I wonder if a young bride once unwrapped this piece of jewellery from crackling tissue paper on her wedding morning? One thing is certain: today, social rules have (thankfully) changed - and you don't have to wait until the wedding to wear a beautiful piece like this.

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