Glamorous Brooch of Late Art Deco With Large Tourmaline, Around 1935

In the course of the 1930s, fashion changed in the field of jewellery. Not overnight, of course, and with a chime, but in small steps: it became increasingly clear that the previous preference for platinum and cool white shining jewels gave way to jewellery made of warm shining yellow gold. The shapes also changed. Pendants and brooches, for example, had previously been rather flat in design, richly decorated with shadow gaps and milgrains. The new designs, on the other hand, were sculpturally conceived, expansive, and showcased gleaming smooth surfaces. The glamorous brooch here beautifully demonstrates this evolution. It is designed around a large forest green tourmaline, a quality stone from Brazil of more than 60 carats. The spectacular gemstone is framed by a wide, dynamically curved setting of yellow gold. Small diamonds in platinum settings add their white glittering points of light to the design. Looking at the brooch from the side shows how deeply staggered the work is. This is, of course, due to the large gemstone in the center - but rather than trying to hide this necessity, the design makes a virtue of it. It emphasizes its depth through the staggering of the frames, the curved bands, and the curvatures that almost suggest swaths of fabric. The tourmaline looks as if it is resting on a soft cushion. The small diamonds alone, with their platinum setting and fine milgrains, are thus reminiscent of 1920s Art Deco. The generous, almost sculptural use of yellow gold is a new style, late Art Deco, called "Retro Style" in English. This timeless jewel of exquisite quality found its way to us from a private collection in Baden. It is accompanied by an independent material certificate by DeGEB.

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