Gorgeous Aquamarine Ring With Diamonds in White Gold & Platinum, c. 1930

A radiant, ice-blue aquamarine weighing 9.70 ct sits at the centre of this ring. The gemstone is cut in a scissor shape, allowing its facets to beautifully refract the light and produce the brilliance for which aquamarines are renowned. Delicate inclusions, such as snowflakes and fine lines, run through the stone, bearing witness to its formation through the forces of nature. Beyond its cool colouring, it was precisely this brilliance that made aquamarine a favourite in jewellery fashion during the early decades of the 20th century – for by then, electricity had firmly established itself, and night could be turned into day. “The aquamarine and other pale varieties of beryl are stones that lose none of their brilliance at night,” wrote Arthur Herbert Church in 1891, and “All beryls are highly brilliant under artificial light and are therefore desirable stones for evening wear,” added Helen Bartlett Bridgman in 1915. This very ring, designed in the cool aesthetic of Art Deco, will have once accompanied its first wearer to evening events – perhaps to an elegant dinner or a gala. This is suggested by its festive white colour and its rich diamond embellishment, as both were considered appropriate for evening occasions. In total, 0.94 ct of fine white to white old-cut diamonds sparkle brilliantly in their platinum settings. True to its era, the ring was crafted from platinum on gold, with rhodium plating lending it a uniform white hue. We have obtained an independent gemmological report on the ring, which is included with it.

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