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1d 13hDEHofer Antikschmuck

Large Brooch With Diamond Roses in Silver & Rose Gold, Around 1890

Large Brooch With Diamond Roses in Silver & Rose Gold, Around 1890

The lily or fleur-de-lis has been known as a heraldic symbol since the Middle Ages. Originally a religious symbol, represented as an attribute of the Virgin Mary due to its purity symbolism, the lily soon transferred to the heraldic context, as it also symbolically legitimised the rule by God's grace. Although the lily is found in many coats of arms, it has been associated with the French monarchy in particular since the 13th century. Against this background, it does not seem surprising that the present brooch was once imported to France - as evidenced by import marks on the side of the piece of jewellery. The almost 10 cm long pin carries an elegantly curved showpiece in its center, which shows a fleur-de-lis in the middle. The showpiece is crafted in silver and entirely paved with diamond roses, while the base and the needle are made of high-carat red gold. The rose cut used here is one of the oldest diamond cuts, known as far back as the 16th century. It is characterized by the fact that the upper side of the diamond is faceted in a star shape and the underside is cut flat. This creates a very specific, soft shimmer, the effect of which was aimed at the effect in flickering candlelight. The rose cut was still popular until the early 20th century. The brooch is very well preserved. We were able to discover it in Paris.

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