Large Diamonds Brooch in White Gold & Platinum, c. 1925

Brooches in the shape of crescent moons first came into fashion in the middle of the 19th century. Stars and moons were part of a major oriental fashion at the time. Unlike in previous centuries - the Turks were still standing outside Vienna in the 18th century - the Ottoman Empire was no longer seen as a threat, but as a desirable, foreign and exotic counterpart. Especially after Prussia's alliance with the Ottomans in the Crimean War of the 1850s, people loved the Orient with all its foreign characteristics, which was then extensively traveled and explored. The ladies of the time wore these brooches in combination with various other pieces at the neckline of their magnificent dresses. Many of the moons were decorated exclusively with diamonds in order to create a certain colorful closeness to the natural model. But more colorful designs were also created, often with several rows of precious gemstones. Diamonds were usually combined with sapphires or rubies. This brooch is an echo of this lunar fashion in the early 20th century, as it was probably created around 1925, judging by its workmanship. The brooch is made of high-carat white gold with a platinum overlay on the front and set with 23 old-cut diamonds. The gemstones in the so-called "Old European Cut" have a total weight of around 1.65 ct and are set in delicate shadow gaps with millegrain decorations in graduated lines on the body of the moon. The size of the brooch, which is a real eye-catcher at around 6.6 cm in length, should be emphasized. An unusual piece of jewelry from the 1920s that is reminiscent of the long tradition of moon jewelry. We discovered this piece of jewelry here in Berlin.

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