Luxurious Diamond and Pearl Brooch in Platinum, c. 1920

The great diamond discoveries in South Africa at the end of the 19th century made diamond jewellery ubiquitous - indeed, almost an indispensable part of the elegant evening wardrobe. Heavy rivière necklaces and magnificent diamond stars testify to the abundance in which diamonds were suddenly available. However, the more diamond fashion developed, the more it was considered chic to stand out not through size, but through the delicacy and sophistication of the design. As early as 1912, it was said of the jewels of the season that fashion was "leaning towards wonderful designs of diamond lace, which require so much skill and work that pieces of jewellery of this kind, despite smaller stones, cost no less than at that time, when solid diamonds were used and little attention was paid to the question of setting." The brooch presented here is just such an artfully crafted piece: a jewel of incomparable elegance, whose beauty does not arise from the mere juxtaposition of large stones, but from their masterful integration into a multi-layered, finely crafted design. The basic octagonal shape is simple yet effective. A narrow band of diamonds in platinum and a row of shimmering natural pearls form the elegant frame. A radiant old-cut diamond sits at the center of the ensemble, highlighted by a ring of hand-cut platinum rays. With every movement, the brooch catches the light, thriving on subtle chiaroscuro effects and the special interplay of material, craftsmanship and design. The brooch bears the signature of a French goldsmith. We discovered it in Switzerland. It is in very good condition and is of remarkably high quality craftsmanship.

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