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Alla auktioner / Smycken & ädelstenar / Magnificent Amethyst Gold Rivière with Matching Earrings, c. 1870

9d 15hDEHofer Antikschmuck

Magnificent Amethyst Gold Rivière with Matching Earrings, c. 1870

Magnificent Amethyst Gold Rivière with Matching Earrings, c. 1870

Hardly any other type of jewelry embodies the elegance of the late 19th century as perfectly as the rivière. It owes its name to the French word for "river" and indeed, in these necklaces, an uninterrupted stream of precious stones seems to flow around the wearer's neck. Unlike necklaces, in which elaborately crafted precious metal and ornamental settings played a major role, the rivière lives almost exclusively from the rhythm of its stones and their play of light. The first examples were created in the early 19th century, but it was in the second half of the 19th century that the rivière became one of the most popular forms of jewelry and was worn at balls as well as at court or the opera. This rivière was created in the second half of the 19th century, probably around 1870, and impresses with its exceptionally large, natural amethysts. A total of ten large stones with a deep purple color make up the necklace. The center stone, the largest gemstone in a graduated row, weighs around 58 carats. The rivière is complemented by a matching pair of earrings, which were probably made in the 20th century from elements of the original necklace. All the stones are set in gold and connected by fine, movable chain links, giving the pieces of jewellery a soft and elegant fit around the neck. The deep color of the amethysts used is particularly remarkable, with fine reddish and occasionally slightly bluish nuances. Amethysts such as these are among the most precious representatives of their kind and were valued more highly than many other colored stones in the 19th century. As the most beautiful amethysts with this intense color came from Russia in the 19th century, all amethysts of this color were soon referred to as "Siberian amethysts", regardless of their actual origin. A usage that has persisted in the trade to this day. Together, the amethysts in the ensemble weigh an impressive total of around 329.23 carats. It has been preserved in a 20th century shaped case and came to us from the Moselle. If you would like a longer necklace, our goldsmiths can remove the earrings and reintegrate the amethysts into the necklace.

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