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Magnificent Gold & Pearl Earrings, Probably from Spain, c. 1870

Magnificent Gold & Pearl Earrings, Probably from Spain, c. 1870

Over the centuries, Spanish jewellery art developed a distinctive stylistic language. Opulent goldwork, bold ornamentation, and movable suspended elements defined many of its characteristic jewelry designs. The large 18th-century drop earrings proved particularly enduring; their rich design, featuring bows, flowers, and pendants, continued to influence jewelry long after the period in which they were created. Exceptionally finely crafted pieces of jewellery were made from gold and emeralds and worn by the Spanish nobility at court. This era—arguably the most prolific—came to an abrupt end with the Napoleonic occupation of the country in 1809. It was not until the 1830s that Spain once again began producing significant quantities of pieces of jewellery. Stylistically, these pieces of jewellery were almost entirely modeled after examples from the preceding century and retained them in virtually unchanged form. This pair of exquisite earrings from around 1870 also follows a style that was already widespread on the Iberian Peninsula in the 18th century. Crafted from 18-karat yellow gold, the earrings feature the characteristic three-part structure: a small upper section with a hook and a floral rosette is followed by the defining intermediate element, the so-called “lazo”—a bow motif—which is joined by a three-part pendant. The lazo is particularly magnificent here. A wide gold band curves into a large bow with three loops, forming softly sweeping, three-dimensional arches combined with delicate leaf motifs. The gold surface is richly textured. The engravings enliven the broad gold surfaces, breaking up their sheen and thus creating a rich interplay of light and shadow. A flower with a central pearl accentuates the center. The lower edge is formed by another floral rosette with a pearl, from which three freely moving, teardrop-shaped gold pendants hang. The center drop extends slightly further down than the two on the sides. Their smooth, shiny surfaces provide a striking contrast to the richly textured and engraved gold of the center piece and lend the earrings additional movement when worn.

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Magnificent Gold & Pearl Earrings, Probably from Spain, c. 1870