Magnificent Pendant Brooch With 3.76 Ct Diamonds By Rudolf Niklasch

A total of 3.76 ct of diamonds shine in this early 20th century jewel. A large old-cut diamond occupies the center of the design. A total of 113 smaller diamonds occupy the elegant, symmetrically designed sweeps and arches around the central stone. Down follows a moveable garland, of course also made of diamonds, and finally a drop-cut diamond forms the finale. The dynamic shapes of the brooch speak the language of Art Nouveau, Art Nouveau. However, the rich use of diamonds and the abstract, symmetrical composition of the piece show that it was not created in the birth years of Art Nouveau around 1900, but a few years later: for Art Nouveau had to prove itself before large sums of money were also invested in white jewels in this entirely new style. By 1905, however, Art Nouveau had already matured, had evolved into fantastic and increasingly abstract compositions that invited interpretation. Are they wings or Egyptian lotus blossoms that stretch out here to the left and right of the central old-cut diamond? So that the investment in such a precious jewel paid off twice, the piece of jewelry is equipped with a double function: The pin can be unscrewed and replaced with a chain. As low-cut evening dresses came into fashion at the beginning of the 20th century, the demand for beautifully designed, modern pendants to go with the new dresses also increased. The fine white jewel comes from the assortment of Viennese jeweler Rudolf Niklasch, who received his trade license in 1898 and operated his store at Habsburgergasse 10 from 1899 until at least 1908. Niklasch was also president of the Diamond Club of Vienna, which had existed since 1907 at the latest and was newly founded in 1921 after the First World War. When in 1938 the Gestapo confiscated diamond goods from Jewish members and it was no longer possible for them to operate openly in the club, they met secretly at Habsburgergasse 10. Due to his connections to the Diamond Club, it is reasonable to assume that Niklasch continued to reside there and made his premises available for the secret meetings. Thus, he was again elected president of the club after the war in 1946. The jewel has been wonderfully preserved in its original case. It can be dated very well not only by its construction and diamond cuts, but moreover by comparative pieces. In the German Journal der Goldschmiedekunst of 1907, for example, there are designs with similar elements (see last illustration, here the upper pendant as well as the middle necklace).

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