Magnificent Victorian Ring with Sapphire & Diamonds, c. 1890

In the late 19th century, artists and designers had access to a wealth of knowledge about the past and its artistic forms as never before. Art history as a discipline had, only in the preceding decades, analysed and catalogued the epochs and styles of European art one after the other. And with each new discovery, the possibilities for creating works of art – and indeed jewellery – in the forms of the past grew ever greater. As a source of inspiration for their own work, history was beyond question in those years: the aim was to create something new out of the knowledge of the old. Yet for many artists and goldsmiths it was not enough merely to work in historical styles, or to produce creations so perfect in their imitation that they might be mistaken for genuinely antique. No – new forms also emerged! Sometimes from the combination of familiar elements, sometimes as entirely free inventions. Just like in the present ring, which evokes the idea of a rich past not so much through its details as through its overall appearance. The design is bold, broad and precious. Securely set in high-carat gold and silver, we see a magnificent sky-blue sapphire, flanked by two large diamonds of starry brilliance. Numerous smaller diamonds accompany the principal stones, adorning delicate ornaments in the form of blossoms and leaves. The shank itself, in yellow gold, is richly ornamented so that the ring is attractive even when viewed from the side. The head of the ring, by contrast, is made of silver, providing the diamonds with a white, untinted setting in which their light can unfold to the fullest. Before the invention of white gold around 1915 and the growing use of platinum from about 1900, silver was the customary material for diamond jewellery. Alongside the richness of its design, the use of silver also points to a dating of the ring around 1890. The large diamonds to the left and right of the central stone were evidently replaced at some point, for they are cut in the modern brilliant style. The ring is impressive both in scale and in detail. To confirm the quality of the materials, we have obtained an independent expert’s report, which accompanies the piece. It is in excellent condition and transports the viewer at once into a distant past full of splendour and beauty.

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