Ojibwe Jingle Dress, Orange Cotton with Rolled Metal Cones

Native American, Great Lakes or Northern Plains, Ojibwe or Lakota, ca. mid-20th century CE. A woman’s jingle dress of orange cotton with a V-neck, a standing collar, three-quarter sleeves, and a dropped waist that opens into soft pleats. Rows of rolled metal cones, each tied on with cotton cord, hang from a chevron yoke across the chest, from both cuffs, and in two tiers above the hem. Every row is sewn to purple satin ribbon, and the yoke ribbon also carries pink plastic sequins. The dress was made for dancing, most likely at powwows, and with each step the cones strike together with a sound often compared to rain. The jingle dress is widely credited to the Ojibwe (Anishinaabe) of the western Great Lakes, where it is said to have appeared in the early 20th century. Most oral accounts describe it as a healing dress: in a dream, a father whose daughter was ill was shown how to make the dress and the dance. As the daughter danced in it, she regained her strength. Many communities still treat the dance as a prayer for healing. The first cones were often rolled from the lids of snuff tins. Later makers turned to commercially made cones. The rows are traditionally tied on with cord so that each cone hangs free and strikes the ones beside it. By the 1920s the dress had spread to Dakota and Lakota communities and other Plains peoples, and it later became one of the main women's categories in the modern intertribal powwow circuit. Please note, this dress is displayed on a mannequin, which is available for inclusion with the lot at the buyer’s request. A Certificate of Authenticity will accompany all winning bids. Item # 206299

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