Rare Pendant-Brooch with Pink Tourmalines, Karl Rothmüller, c. 1905

At the beginning of the 20th century, the question of a style appropriate for the present was more pressing than ever. The floral, symbolist-inspired Art Nouveau from France seemed only partially suited to showcasing the creative originality of German goldsmiths. German artist-jewellers, who executed their own designs, soon turned to abstract designs featuring unusual gemstones and pearls, which set their craftsmanship and creativity apart from factory-made pieces in a particularly striking way. One of the most renowned among them was Karl Rothmüller from Munich—as early as 1900, he had been regarded at the Paris World’s Fair as the German answer to Lalique. This piece of jewellery, too, was most likely crafted by Rothmüller. It is unsigned – as are most of his works – but its design corresponds to the pieces he created in the first decade of the 20th century. It is symmetrical in design and has a strong character; with its curved arches, it clearly draws inspiration from France, yet transforms it into a more abstract, expressionistic design language in its details. The combination of materials also speaks to Rothmüller’s design language. Particularly around the middle of the decade, Rothmüller favoured mixed metals and pink tourmalines, as contemporary articles and illustrations attest. He preferred to combine these with natural pearls in unusual shapes, which he arranged to sprout from gold branches like fruit. The chain was recently replaced, but it was carefully selected to harmonize with the gold elements of the pendant. The piece's original dual function has also been preserved: The chain can be detached, allowing the piece to be worn as a brooch—originally on the collar of a reform-style dress. This artistic piece came to us from Munich. It is a rare and beautiful piece of jewellery that, while not bearing Rothmüller’s signature, certainly bears his distinctive style.

Utropspris:SEK 55,792.04

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