Romantic Brooch With Turquoises in Gold, Great Britain Around 1850

Queen Victoria reigned for 63 years, and numerous jewellery styles came and went during her reign. The first decades after her accession, the 1830s to 1850s, are sometimes summarized in jewellery history as the "Romantic Period" - in keeping with the theme of the jewellery, which was often sentimental in nature. The present brooch is a perfect example of this, combining several romantic symbols at once. The brooch is designed as a bow, from which, held on fine snake chains, a heart is suspended. While the meaning of the heart is still explained to us today, the bow requires a little explanation: just like knot motifs, it was seen as a sign of attachment, because it figuratively tied the lovers together. The setting is also significant: in the language of gemstones, turquoise was considered to be a sign of true love. In addition, because of their colour, they were associated with the forget-me-not and its meaning. Once upon a time, there was probably a small, glazed compartment on the back of the heart, behind which the hair of the giver could be framed. Even in older times, however, this was replaced by a suitably cut disc of mother-of-pearl. This beautifully preserved piece of jewellery probably originated in Great Britain. It is a wonderful example of how skilfully our ancestors were able to enrich jewellery with motifs and associations: In only the smallest space, the brooch tells a love story.

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