Sculptural Ruby and Diamond Ring in Platinum on Gold, c. 1940

In jewellery, as in fashion, shapes and trends are subject to constant change. What was unfashionable just a moment ago can be all the rage again the very next. This phenomenon can also be seen in the development of Art Deco. While cool platinum undisputedly dominated the world of jewelry in the 1920s and early 1930s, colored gold made an astonishing comeback from the mid-1930s onwards. In the course of the so-called "retro jewellery", the once delicate shapes also became much more voluminous and gave the jewellery an expressive presence. The ring presented here speaks this powerful design language: it is forged from slightly reddish gold and platinum and presents itself as an oval positioned across the finger. In the center, five rubies are staggered in a row according to size. Two rows of diamonds follow to the right and left, together weighing almost one carat. The white and red sparkling showpiece is slightly raised above the finger by further diamonds and shiny gold spheres. The three-part ring band runs elegantly under the arrangement and connects to the platinum part on the narrow sides. This gives the powerful, large ring its own dynamic. The ring was created in Germany around 1940. Both the rubies and the diamonds are stones in old cuts, which were probably collected together from older pieces of jewellery to create a new design in the taste of the time. This procedure can often be observed in jewellery from the 1930s and 1940s and was due to the circumstances of the time.

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