Sleek Antique Ring with Diamonds and Sapphires in Platinum, c. 1915

Two wonderful, sparkling diamonds were the starting point for this first-class ring. They are set side by side in the most delicate platinum frames. Each weighing more than 0.80 ct, they shine in a slightly warm-toned white. Their cut is the so-called "old cut", an early form of the brilliant cut, which was the usual cut for diamonds at the beginning of the 20th century. The ring was also created at precisely this time. The two large diamonds are surrounded by a double frame. A row of small diamonds is accompanied by a row of blue sapphires. They form parallel lines that form the octagonal outline of the ring face like ribbons of folded fabric. Their white and blue light are the only colors of the design. This is because all the stones are set in platinum, which shines just as white and cool as the diamonds. The sapphires are set in the platinum in a special way. They are, in the parlance of the time, "calibrated", i.e. shaped in such a way that they form an uninterrupted line when set next to each other. Using gemstones in this way came into fashion shortly before the First World War: they are very often found in emerald, ruby and sapphire jewellery in the 1910s; their use slowly fell out of fashion again in the 1920s. Numerous very beautiful examples can be found, for example, in a catalog from the Bansse company in Paris, which can be viewed online here. It shows the different ways in which this motif could be used. The fashion is also found in German-speaking countries. In 1913, the following was written about the latest Viennese jewelry fashions: "Among the newest rings are those whose plate is composed of a round-cut solitaire surrounded by a circle of small diamonds, each one framed by a line of tiny emeralds [...], the platinum hoop is very thin." We were able to discover the elegant ring in Franconia. An independent expert opinion from Vienna has confirmed the quality of the materials used. It is enclosed with the perfectly preserved ring. Quote from Deutsche Goldschmiedezeitung, No. 3, 1913, p. 18.

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