Three Breast Buttons made of So-Called “Vesuvius Lava,” Italy ca. 1870

Sooner or later, every traveler on the Grand Tour would reach Naples during their journey through Italy. This dream destination for lovers of antiquity captivated visitors with its location on the Gulf of Naples, its spectacular view of Mount Vesuvius, its mild climate, its rugged yet enchanting cityscape, and—last but not least—its rich, timeless artistic treasures from antiquity. As early as the 18th century, so many spectacular art treasures had been brought to Naples from the cities of Pompeii and Herculaneum—which were destroyed in the eruption of Vesuvius in 79 AD—that the city’s museums enjoyed world fame. A visit to them was a must-see stop in the city. And, of course, no one would miss a visit to Pompeii itself, with its macabre allure. No wonder, then, that souvenirs from this trip were a must: A local arts and crafts industry emerged, specializing in the production of top-quality cameos—made from coral, shells, and colorful local varieties of stone, which were sold as “lava” from the volcano. Objects made from this material were particularly prized by travelers. We can easily imagine their fascination anew: to hold in one’s hands a piece of the mountain that brought such a gruesome end to life in the ancient world—and yet also made its preservation for later generations possible in the first place! What better souvenir could one imagine? Here are three shirt cuff buttons carved from this significant material. They are shaped like diamonds standing on their points, each decorated with a profile image of an ancient beauty in relief. The figure on the gray button could be Athena or Diana; the other two have no attributes. Nevertheless, it is clear: the culture and religion of the world of the “Ancients,” to use Goethe’s words, are recreated here in the very material of their downfall: Vesuvian lava, stone, and fire are united here and bear witness to the grandeur of antiquity. On the tradition of “lava” cameos, see also Charlotte Gere/Judy Rudoe: Jewelry in the Age of Queen Victoria, A Mirror to the World, London: British Museum Press 2010, pp. 493ff.

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