Unusual Diamond Necklace in Platinum on Gold, c. 1920

Diamond-set pieces of jewellery are all about the striking interplay of light and shadow on the surfaces, about reflection and brilliance. Pieces of jewellery from the early 20th century are therefore often characterized by delicate sawn detailing: The resulting open space is deliberately used to break up the surfaces, lend the design a greater sense of lightness, and create a subtle shadow effect that complements the diamonds’ brilliance. In this necklace, this artistry has been applied with particularly striking effect. A total of approximately 1.95 ct of diamonds bathe the necklace in white light, skillfully set off by the shadows cast by the delicate openwork. A cluster of diamonds at the center of the Y-shaped necklace is transformed into a radiant blossom by the deliberate use of open space all around it. Above and below it, ornamental shapes have been cut out, reminiscent of stylized Ionic capitals. With its Y-shape and central floral motif, the necklace resembles an abstract posy holder, or “tussie-mussie,” as it was called in Victorian England: A small, conical holder for bouquets—often made of sterling silver—that a lady could carry with her to complement her ball gown. We were able to acquire the necklace in Berlin, and it was likely crafted in Germany as well, where—alongside the internationally popular, angular Art Deco designs—pieces of jewellery that reflected the influence of Expressionism were also in vogue. A wonderful, creative gem that stands at the threshold between the Belle Époque and Art Deco and captures the spirit of optimism of those years in its original design.

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