Victorian Collar Gold Brooch in the Archaeological Style, Birmingham 1891

This late 19th-century collar brooch is both delicate and richly detailed. The horizontally mounted piece of jewellery is crafted from 15-karat yellow gold. A round centerpiece is flanked on both sides by tapered decorative elements. Delicate soldered details, tiny gold beads, and applied ornaments made of gold wire enliven the surface. In the center, a small diamond sparkles in a star-shaped recessed setting. The brooch’s design follows the so-called “archaeological style,” which, beginning in the mid-19th century, revived ancient jewelry forms and goldsmithing techniques. In particular, the small gold beads and fine wires are reminiscent of granulation and the filigree found in ancient Etruscan pieces of jewellery. In England, these influences were soon combined with the contemporary Victorian design language. An American jewelry catalog from 1889 illustrates just how popular such small brooches were at the end of the 19th century. On page 424, several very similar pieces can be found; see here. Our brooch can even be precisely dated thanks to its English hallmark. It was assayed in Birmingham in 1891. The 15-karat gold used is also typically British. The fineness of 625/000 was introduced in Great Britain in 1854 as the legal gold standard and remained in use until 1932. The brooch is in very good condition.

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