Victorian Gold Bangle with the Cameo of a Gentleman, Italy/Britain, c. 1880s

This gold bangle with a finely carved shell cameo came to us from London. While shell cameos of the late Victorian period generally depicted figures from classical mythology, i.e. gods and goddesses from classical antiquity, our cameo shows a more individual motif: it is a portrait of a gentleman of advanced age with a proud beard. Pieces of jewellery of this type were made to order by Italian gem cutters based on photographs or drawings by the buyer. They were popular souvenirs from trips to the Bay of Naples, where the centre of gem processing in Italy is still located today. In the tradition of emperors and kings of classical antiquity, the English gentleman had himself portrayed in a fine relief: We see the bust portrait of the bearded man in three-quarter profile, wearing a suit with a patricide and matching bowtie. Jewellery of this kind was intended as a gift for the buyer's wife or daughter. They were not just sentimental, cherished treasures - the bangle also tells of the man's journey to Italy and thus also of the prosperity and education of his own family. The piece of jewellery is thus also visible evidence of the costly journey to Italy, the land of longing, which was regarded as a treasure trove of classical education. The simple setting of the shell gem is made of reddish gold, as it was worn in the late 19th century. The bangle itself has a three-strand design, as was common in the 1880s, and is intended for a slender arm. A hinge with a safety catch makes it easy to put on. A piece of jewellery with a very special history of its own, and at the same time a testimony to the high level of gem-setting craftsmanship in southern Italy at the time.

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