Victorian Jet Brooch With Shell Cameo of the Virgin and Child, England c. 1860

Victorian England was infatuated with jewellery with cameos. In contrast to earlier eras, when cameos were kept in locked cabinets and only delighted the collector, they were now intended to be worn and admired by all as transportable works of art. Gems with mythological motifs were particularly prized, especially those made in the Bay of Naples. English travelers who visited Italy as part of the Grand Tour were the first to bring these exquisitely carved cameos back home as souvenirs; later, the carved cameos were imported directly by British traders and set into jewellery locally. This brooch from around 1860 is one such piece. Cut from two-tone shell, the oval cameo presents a serene scene showing Mary sitting on a grassy bench with the Christ Child. It is possible that this religious motif was chosen because it is a mourning ornament. A frame of deep black and carved whitby-jett surrounds the cameo. In England during the Victorian era, mourning times were strictly regulated, as were the associated rules for mourning attire and mourning jewelry. Black pieces of jewellery in reduced colors like ours were worn with the black dresses of ladies who mourned the loss of a loved one. Today, detached from convention and regulations, the brooch can also be used as a decorative accessory without sadness!

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